Pop culture eras can be measured in eyebrows. The 90s and 2000s were dominated by Pamela Andersons over-plucked lines. In the 2010s, model Cara Delevingnes grown-out bushy brows became the grooming standard. Now, after entering a new decade (and trend cycle), high-profile brows are transforming yet again, with model Bella Hadid repping ultra-tiny arches and musician Doja Cat shaving hers off completely. Through each fad, eyebrows remain an inextricable part of our beauty routinesand an ongoing emblem of self-expression. This is why it can feel particularly disheartening when they start to dwindle over time.As we age, our hair follicles get weaker, says Geeta Yadav, a dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology. Weaker follicles produce smaller and thinner hairs. Eyebrows are especially susceptible to thinning because of all the tugging, plucking and waxing theyre subjected to, which damages the follicles and can cause them to stop producing hair. This usually begins around perimenopause, which often starts in your 40s. But dont assume dwindling arches are normal, says Yadav. They can also be a sign of autoimmune, autoinflammatory or hormonal conditions, so its important to take note of how your hair is disappearing and if there are any other changes happening alongside it.
FACT: Eyebrowsparseness can becaused by a numberof factors, fromautoimmune disorderslike alopecia areatato hormonal conditionslike thyroid disease.But brows can alsothin out naturallydue to age.
Alopecia areata, for example, can impact eyebrows. The disease arises when the immune system attacks hair follicles, causing patchiness on areas like your scalp, arms and brows. Eyebrow sparseness can also be a sign of thyroid disease: The thyroid isnt secreting the right amount of hormones, making the brows thinner. If you notice any irregularities, check in with a doctor.When it comes to brows thinning naturally as you age though, there are ways to slow the process. To start, stay mindful of your skins sensitivities, dont overdo your grooming and opt for shaping techniques that are less harmful to your skin. Beyond that, there are lots of treatments out there aimed at making fading brows look fuller.
Brow lamination
Like a perm for your arches, this buzzy technique has been hailed as a non-invasive way to spruce up your brows. The 45-minute treatment uses a chemical solutionusually containing thioglycolic acid, which breaks the bonds of the hair and allows them to be re-shapedto brush follicles in a vertical direction, leaving them fluffy, full and slicked. It can last up to eight weeks, says Brittni Alexandra, an esthetician and owner of B. Beautiful studio in Toronto, who charges $140 for the service. Apart from keeping brows dry for two days after the appointment, theres no heavy after-care required. But note: This distinct aesthetic of hoisted-up hair is not for everyone. I call it the supermodel off-duty look, says Alexandra. Before committing, she recommends trying the soap brow trend, brushing brows in an upward position and using pomade, gel or soap to hold them in place. If you do decide to get this treatment, keep in mind that it doesnt create the look of hair on skin. So, if you have full-length brows that are sparse overall, lamination can make them look thicker. But it cant bring back the tail-end of your arch.
Microblading
Pricier but more permanent, microblading is a roughly one- to two-hour procedure that simulates individual hairs by scratching the surface level of the skin in fine strokes. This works for people who have lost their brows completely, due to causes like alopecia or chemotherapy, or for those who simply dont feel like filling in their arches. When it heals, it looks like real hair; you shouldnt know the difference, says Alexandra, who charges roughly $650 for the initial procedure and $200 for a touch-up a few weeks later. The healing process is quick, as long as you commit to the before- and after-care. Twenty-four hours before the appointment, steer clear of substances that can thin your blood (alcohol; coffee). And for 14 days after, dont wear brow makeup, avoid chlorine or salt water and forgo heavy exercisesweat pushes the colour out. Microblading lasts up to three years on its own, and much longer with the help of annual touch-ups, so maintaining your new bushy brows is a yearly financial commitment. The payout? Naturally full-looking brows at all times.
Ombr brows
A less invasive alternative to microblading, ombr shading adds depth to wispy brows by applying very fine pigment dots onto the skin. Unlike henna, which yields a similar initial result but turns patchy as it fades, ombr brows give the long-lasting look of skillfully applied makeup. The two-ish hour procedure is best for those wanting filled-in powdered brows, as opposed to natural hairs. Because its applying more pigment, ombr brows hold to the skin better than other semi-permanent procedures, and Alexandra charges roughly $700 for the treatment, plus $250 for touch-ups. With the same upkeep as microblading, they can last for over five years.(Related:How Safe Is Permanent Makeup?)
6 of the best makeup products to emulate naturally full brows
Elf Wow Brow Tinted GelEnriched with tinted hair-like fibres, this wax-gel hybrid brushes, shapes and thickens for a naturally filled-in finish. Available in five shades, it has an easy-to-use brush that volumizes brows.$5, elfcosmetics.comBenefit Cosmetics Fluff Up Brow Flexible Brow-Texturizing WaxGet the lamination effect at home with this clear wax that slicks up your brows and holds them in place for 12 hours. Jojoba seed and shea butter keep them feeling moisturized instead of sticky.$34, sephora.comJust for Men 1-Day Beard & BrowThis temporary eyebrow dye, loved by aestheticians, comes ready to use. Brush into brows, let set for five minutes, and youre off. The product comes with 30 single-day applications and is available in five shades that cover greys.$18, walmart.caTwenty/Twenty Full Brows Tinted GelAvailable in three shades, this gel covers grey hairs while creating thicker brows both instantly and over time. Void of harsh dyes, this ophthalmologist-developed formula supports hair growth long term and wont cause eye irritation.$26, trytwentytwenty.comNYX Lift & Snatch! Tinted Brow PenThanks to a fine-pointed micro-brush tip, this pen can be used to detail individual strokes for a natural result. Available in 10 shades, the smudge-free formula offers buildable pigment for adding volume or creating the look of hair on skin.$16, nyxcosmetics.caAnastasia Beverly Hills DipBrow Waterproof Brow PomadeThis waterproof, full-coverage creamy pomade is a cult classic for a reason. Use it to sculpt brows, shade in patches and transform thin arches into thick ones. Start sparinglya little goes a long way.$24, sephora.comNext: What Are Henna Brows?
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